Lemo – Toraja Stone Grave

Lemo village situated 9 kilometres south of Rantepao town, Lemo houses centuries-old stone graves, or liang, that are still being built and used by locals to bury their dead. The place, meaning pomelo, got its name and burial function after the civil war. In the 17th century, there was a nobleman called Songgi Patalo, who constructed a fort and a small house on top of the mountains to defend himself from the enemies. The fort was made of volcanic rock and resembled a pomelo, and when he died, families began making the stone graves.

To an untrained eye, these graves look like a cluster of squares on a large, flat stone wall. These squares, in actual fact, have interiors large enough to fit an entire family whose bodies are placed in rows and layers. Extended families can also share the plot, but this is at the discretion of the eldest family member. In terms of appearance, the openings of these chambers are either closed by a wooden door or sealed with concrete. The former indicates that there is still space for bodies to be buried inside, while the latter is permanent; it signifies a whole family has been buried.

These burial plots are carved by trained grave makers, can cost up to Rp 80 million, and take between five months to two years to build. The reason for this lengthy duration is because most grave makers have day jobs as carpenters and farmers, and only carve in their free time. If a family requests a new stone grave they must inform the grave makers in advance (because they sometimes live in other villages) to negotiate a contract price. The main tools used in the carving of the burial plots are bamboo (for the ladder), chisel and hammer.

Some of these plots are graced by wooden effigies, locally known as tau-tau. Each tau-tau is believed to be a visual representation of the dead. They are meticulously carved out of kayu nangka (jackfruit wood), chosen because its white sap symbolizes purity. Additionally, the tau-taus are clothed in red and yellow outfits with hands outstretched, palms facing upwards. Their arms are positioned in this way as a manner of giving blessings. Thus, more than simple objects, they are personified to have spirits that protect the family, land, and crops. At the conclusion of every fruitful harvest, family members return to the burial site to thank their ancestors.

The presence of the stone graves demonstrate the enduring nature of Torajan culture. Despite the majority of modern Torajans being Christians, a large portion of their beliefs and values surrounding death are still deeply rooted in ancient practices. Lemo is defenately a highlighted for your Toraja Tour.